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      What are hardtail and full suspension ebikes? Hardtail electric bikes include a suspension fork up front but no rear suspension – giving them an extremely rigid, unsuspended back frame. Thus the term hardtail. Known for their lighter weight and lower price point, hardtail bikes are a popular choice for new off-roaders. Full suspension(FullSus) electric bikes boast both a suspension fork up front and a suspended rear wheel. They can also be known as dual-suspension mountain bikes. The addition of a rear shock makes these bikes more efficient and comfier to ride on difficult off-road terrain. The rear shock also improves the bike's traction and control, resulting in more rider comfort. This does not necessarily mean that full suspension bikes feature better suspension and shocks, as it comes down to a question of versatility. Difference between hardtail and full suspension ebikes Weight Without the added weight of pivots, a rear shock and suspension linkages, a hardtail mountain bike is usually at least a kilo lighter than its full suspension counterpart. In terms of climbing efficiency, this can mean a lot…however, when it comes to electric mountain bikes, a heavier weight doesn’t need to be a deal-breaker. With a powerful motor giving you a boost, you can still tackle those steep inclines on a full suspension Haibike e-bike without that penalty! Versatility a rigid hardtail frame was the more versatile option thanks to very little loss of energy on the road, and a more direct feel in terms of power delivery through the drivetrain and wheels into the ground. Due to modern suspension design, the loss of energy you get on a full suspension bike is barely noticeable. And of course, with a Yamaha or Bosch motor thrown in, that previous loss is negated by electrical assistance. Terrain Another thing to consider when choosing your mountain bike is where exactly you’re going to be riding it. Although both hardtail and full suspension bikes can tackle a wide variety of difficult terrain, your ride will feel different depending on which bike you choose.  Because of its rear shock, full suspension ebike feel a lot smoother to ride on technical terrain. If you’re looking for a bike that’ll take you as far off the beaten track as you can go, a full suspension electric bike might be your best bet. They can also be a good choice for beginners, with the rear suspension helping to absorb a lot of the expected off-road vibration, lessening rider fatigue meaning you can keep up with more experienced riders.  Without that added suspension in the rear, hardtail ebike can give you a bumpier ride – but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. You can hit the same trails as you can with a full-suspension bike, but you’ll need to be more considerate of line choice, avoiding those rockier and rootier sections of trail where possible! Speed With a lighter frame and fixed riding position, it’s easy to assume that hardtails are the fastest option for less technical mountain biking. And in the case of none electric bikes, that’s arguably true. On smoother trails, hardtail bikes are by far the more battery efficient bike. Aside from their light weight, hardtails also have a more direct connection to the ground, meaning you won’t lose any power as you pedal. Because of this, hardtails are the most popular mountain bike for cross-country racing – helping you fly across a whole host of different terrain at maximum speed.  But when you hit that really technical terrain, full suspension bikes are, of course, the faster choice. Despite their heavier weight, the added suspension helps you plow through the toughest trails with complete confidence, meaning you don’t need to spend as much time navigating obstacles, picking your line of choice, and keeping your balance. If you’re looking for something that’ll plough through gnarly trails with minimal effort, then a full suspension bike is still your best option. Maintenence One advantage of hardtails is how easy they are to maintain. Just like none electric bikes, the most important thing is regular cleaning and lubricating. The added complexity of a full suspension frame means those extra components such as the rear shock and pivots will need servicing on top of your normal bike maintenance.    So, Which is your best choice? When you’re deciding between a hardtail and a full suspension ebike, there is no ‘better’ or ‘worse’ option. But what you can find is the bike that’s best for your specific needs as a rider – whether you’re a seasoned rider or a complete beginner.  So, it all comes down to - what kind of rider are and where do you want to ride.

Primitive Hunting A few unique evolutionary adaptations allowed us to become master hunters. 1. Humans are the only animals that sweat in significant amounts;  Humans can sweat anywhere on the body, which is a massive boon to human endurance.  2. Humans maintain more elaborate and deep social bonds than many other animals. Hunting in groups is a common practice among animals, but humans have the intelligence necessary to take advantage of their numbers.  3. The invention of the spear was the most crucial step in hunting. The ability to throw objects is a unique human evolution  Humans only became better hunters from here. Other significant developments include: The invention of the bow and arrow allowed us to take down prey from even greater distances than throwing spears and granted us additional avenues such as poisoned arrowheads. The dog's domestication caused both species to skyrocket in hunting success. Humans hunt primarily by eyesight, either by directly observing animals or searching for visual cues in the environment such as prints or tree marks. Dogs also do this, and their fantastic hearing and scenting abilities allow humans and dogs together to track prey with greater precision. Dogs also often aided in killing the prey and, in later history, retrieving it if it was in the water. The invention of baited traps allowed us to hunt better, minor game that's hard to see or catch in the wilderness, but these traps were limited and very primitive, typically limited to tied snares or pitfalls. The invention of the fishing line and fishing pole revolutionized the way to hunt fish. Middle History After humans spread around the world thanks to agriculture and farm-living, hunting became a much less essential profession. However, while it became less common, it did not lose its prestige. Hunting ceased to be solely about food, and skins, furs, and bones became luxury commodities for much of human history. Hunting with spears stalled except for some niche cases, and the bow became the primary weapon of the hunter while a hatchet/tomahawk and knife would be carried as sidearms. The domestication of horses increased the ground a hunter or ranger could cover considerably. With greater ranges at their disposal, and the ability to travel to farther, exotic locations, rare skins and pelts found their way into the upper class of society. Despite hunting being a less essential practice, it remained highly prestigious. Living high off of the domestication of the horse and dog, hunters taming other animals started to arise. Other animals were also tamed to strengthen the hunter, falconry, cheetah, and coyotes. Later Periods Advances in simple technology completely changed hunting forever. While smaller countries or communities that relied on hunting for food kept using old ways, hunting grew into a luxury pastime for higher-class citizens. Higher quality steels allowed for robust and powerful melee hunting weaponry. Spear hunting made a return somewhat. Did we forget guns? Firearms turned the act of hunting entirely on its head, and even the smaller societies that used more antiquated practices to hunt within their means reliably would try to get their hands on a rifle or shotgun.  Modern Times Hunting today is a polarizing profession to undertake. Rarely an actual job, hunting is done as a hobby or a self-sufficiency path. Many hunting methods persist today, and animal rights concerns allow it to be a much more humane practice than in previous times. In modern times, hunting is the subject of much debate; some say it is an outdated, inherently cruel practice that should be outlawed. Others say it is required for conservation and to help offset the damage done by human colonization Hunting remains a divisive topic. Laws abound in different countries on how to do it correctly and humanely. Bows returned to the forefront with the invention of the compound bow. Jaw-based traps are typically outlawed, and while cage traps continue to see some use, they have been mainly supplanted by stands and blinds. Modern, advanced rifles can take down prey from obscene distances. Modern vehicles allow hunters to travel even farther from their homes, and coolers or refrigerated boxes will enable them to transport meat fresh from far-off locations. A few years ago, humans replaced running with ATVs, and high-performance guns and arrows replaced primitive tools such as spears. But the disadvantages of ATVs are gradually revealed. The smell is loud, and the sound is loud, often scaring away animals that have not yet reached the destination, and it isn't easy to get to some densely populated areas, which are the best places for hunting. More and more hunters have noticed the high-power, all-terrain tires bikes and the electric bicycles that make noise only when the grass is swept through puddles and can carry prey after adding a trailer. It saves effort and gasoline costs, and there is no smell and almost no sound—excellent help for thousands of hunters.   Some reasons for you to hunt with an ebike Ebikes are now so quiet they are as quiet as a standard bicycle, so hunters can get close without spooking the game. Electric bikes are so quiet; they’re virtually silent, allowing you to get closer to your game undetected. Riding an eBike is a lot quieter than walking. The belt drive is the best choice for the silent hunt event. The low noise of an eBike is a significant advantage when deer or turkey hunting as these animals tend to be easily scared when they hear someone or something approaching. Ebikes are permitted (within certain power classes) on most lands, and the accesses are extended further each year. You can learn more from PeopleForBikes.org and their work campaigning for more access and regulations to categorize ebikes the same across the whole country. Ebikes for hunting are strong enough to carry a hunter and his gear and pull a trailer behind it. Some ebikes have 160Nm of torque so pulling heavy loads is easy.  An ebike cargo trailer will allow you to easily load your game and bring it back to camp for processing.  This takes a lot of the load off of you. The even larger game that would normally require two people to carry out the woods can be quickly moved by just one hunter.  So if you want to make your next hunting trip easier and more successful, you might want to consider purchasing an ebike for hunting.  Hunters can cover more ground in a fraction of the time it would take on foot and leave no scent on the ground while not breaking a sweat so not giving their location away. E-Bikes also leave no scent trail, so you can go virtually unnoticed by many game animals, such as Whitetail Deer, which have a strong sense of smell. Bikonit advises that you keep your bike outdoors if you can— away from any fumes from your garage. Alternatively, you can set it out a day before you head out hunting. E-Bikes also leave less scent on the trail than your boots can create when you go trekking through backcountry woods. Hunters with physical injuries or physical limitations can keep hunting years after they would have needed to hang up their bow or rifle because of the assistance the bikes provide. The rider can still use their bike without pedaling just by engaging the throttle. This safety consideration is comforting when the rider may be injured or may need to get out of a precarious situation quickly.  Some hunters’ thoughts about using an ebike for hunting :  "These eBikes are incredible! They really add a fun element to elk hunting. As you pedal you can really feel the assistance it gives you. We have an area that has gated, non-motorized roads and we were able to cover 3–4 miles in minutes. On our way out, we had a 5-mile pack out but only had to carry the meat about 200 yards. We carried the antlers and one quarter on our back, and the rest the eBike hauled on the trailer. That’s the beauty of the eBike." Corey Jacobsen(World Elk Calling Champion)@coreyjacobsen.elk101  "I have not used one for any purposes, but through my work with Disabled Outdoorsmen USA, I’ve seen them extend the range of hunters with disabilities. It is another tool helping people of any ability enjoy the outdoors, get deeper into the backcountry, and open up hunting opportunities. My only caveat to my praise of ebikes would be that I do feel they need to be regulated and relegated to only being used on established trail systems. I would recommend the use of ebikes to others. They have a myriad of uses." Keith Naylor @spike_bull_outdoors   "The amount of ground you can cover is insane, zero scents and virtually no noise. I would highly recommend them." Kurt Tate    "I like that Ebikes are quiet,  making it easier to sneak up on things and make less noise, they are durable and easy to take on a road trip (you don’t need a trailer), plus it makes the pack out easy 😂 yes I would recommend it to others.   It helps you access many places that might take you a long time to hike. If you ride in 5 miles and out 5 miles.  That’s a lot less hiking you have to do, and you can get to some perfect areas that way!" Kristy Lee Cook@kristylee15   "I can only answer this for myself. When looking back over the last hunting season, there were multiple hunts in which the super subtle approach offered by an e-bike would have been optimal. One of my favorite techniques for locating elk in the rut involves cruising roads in the dark and listening for bugles.  Imagine how much more efficient you could be if you could easily cover 20 miles in a few hours without ever making a noise!" Chris Denham of the Western Hunter     If you have any thoughts, please leave us messages. We are willing to have your shares!

What Is the Most Common Drive System for Ebikes? The most common drive system uses a chain to drive power to the wheels. This drive system has been in use for at least a century. Most bicycles, electric bikes, and motorcycles use chains, and it may be the only kind of drive system you have personally seen. However, other drive systems exist, and the belt drive is among the most well-known alternatives to the chain drive.                                                   What Other Drive Systems Exist for Ebikes? Other drive systems include the belt drive, which uses a belt instead of a chain. The belt drive uses a belt made out of a single part instead of a chain, which is made up of many factors. The belt will have tiny grooves to fit into the two pulleys – one on the gearbox and one on the wheel.                                                   While belt drives are probably most common after chain drives, there are some other types of drive systems out there as well. These include shaft drive, string drive, treadle drive, and direct drive, though these are not common (except direct drive, used for unicycles).   Chain Drives Pros : They are cheaper: Chain drives are generally more affordable than less common belt drives. They are familiar and easy to find: If you need to replace your chain, you can find a new chain bike chain online or at your local bike shop. Most bike shops sell chains, freewheels, cassettes, and chainrings. If your chain breaks or a cog wears out, you can easily find a replacement almost anywhere, even in remote parts of the world.  If you’re choosing a chain drive to make finding parts easier, 9, 10, 11, or 12-speed are your best bet. These are available everywhere. Compatible with most bikes: Chains are compatible with most bikes, regardless of the kind of motor or frame they have. However, some ebike require a particular chain Belts. You can take them apart: Since chains are made up of many parts, it is easy to take them apart. On the other hand, it is impossible to take a belt drive apart, so you will have to take apart the frame instead of removing it or replacing it. You can fix a broken chain: You can always fix it if a chain snaps. A belt drive comes in one piece, so it is damaged for good if the belt snaps. Chains are more efficient at low power inputs: For casual cycling, you’ll burn slightly less energy using a chain drive.  Cons : They can rust: Belt drives don’t rust as chains do, making it more of an issue to ride your bike in the rain or park it outside. They wear out quicker: Chains are not as durable as belts. They can be loud: Chains make more noise than belts due to the chains’ material and the many parts involved. They can squeak and make other annoying noises. They require more maintenance: Chains require a lot more maintenance. You have to clean them often and apply wet or dry lube to ensure they keep running smoothly. You also have to check for rust and ensure the chain isn’t worn out. Chains loose efficiency over time: As chains wear, they tend to ‘stretch.’ This is the loss of material from the chain from wear. As chains wear out, they become loose. This reduces tension and can lead to slippage. Cogs can also wear down to a point where the chain doesn’t fit quite right. This can create additional friction, which causes inefficiency. Not cleaning and lubing the chain often also enough reduces efficiency. This costs you energy. Belts maintain their shape and wear much more slowly. They also wear at the same rate as the cogs. This means they keep their efficiency longer. Dirtier: Chains require frequent cleaning and greasing. It’s a messy job. While dealing with your chain, you’ll eventually get grease on your hands and gear. Heavier: A chain weighs over three times as much as a belt. For example, an average 9-speed bike chain weighs around 450 grams. A Gates Carbon Drive belt weighs about 250 grams. You’ll also need to carry a chain tool, lube, spare links, and something to clean when you’re touring. Maybe even an entire extra chain. This adds a significant amount of weight. With a belt-drive, all you’ll need is a spare belt. Chains are more mechanically complex: Chains have a lot of moving parts. Each link has pins, outer plates, inner plates, and rollers. If a part gets bent or gummed up, it can prevent your chain from working properly. Belts are simply one continuous piece of material. If you’re using derailleurs, your drive system is less complex than if you use an internal gear hub.                                                   Chain drives don’t last as long: An average bike chain lasts around 3,000-5,000 miles if adequately cared for. Every time you change your chain, you’ll probably have to replace your cassette. Belt drives can last 10,000-20,000 miles before they need to be replaced.   Belt Drives Pros : Less maintenance is required: Belt drives require less maintenance. You don’t have to oil and lube the belt like you have to with a chain. For the most part, you can leave the belt as it is, and it will continue to work great. They last longer: Belts wear out much slower than chains. - An adequately maintained belt drive can last 3-5 times as long as a chain drive. Some riders have gotten 20,000 miles (around 30,000 km) out of a single belt. Most chains only last 3000-5000 miles. This means that although belts are more expensive initially, you may spend less in the long run due to not having to replace them as often (and not having to buy lube).                                                   They are quiet: Since belts are made of rubber instead of metal, they don’t make as much noise. If you enjoy peaceful, quiet rides in the morning while enjoying nature and the birds singing, you may want to opt for a belt drive. They stay on the bike: You may have experienced a chain falling off the bike if you’ve biked a lot. This won’t happen with a belt; you won’t have to stop on the side of the road to put your chain back on. They are lighter: Chains are heavier than belts. Belts weigh down your electric bike a lot less than chains. Also, you won’t have to carry around lube on long trips just in case your chain needs lubing.                                                   The driveline is always straight: The most efficient driveline is a straight line between your front chainring and rear cog. The driveline is always straight with a belt drive because the belt never moves between cogs. The shifting all happens in a hub or gearbox. A chain often runs at an angle. This happens when you’re running toward your gear range’s high or low extremes with a derailleur setup. This is inefficient and wastes energy. Of course, if you’re running an internal gear hub or Pinion inner hubs with a chain, the driveline is also straight. No corrosion: Belts are made of modern synthetic materials, including nylon and carbon fiber. These materials don’t rust. This property makes belt drives an excellent choice for areas where corrosion is expected, like near the ocean. Cons : They are more expensive: Belt drives are more expensive than chain drives. This is because the actual endeavor is more costly to produce and because they require specific inner hubs like Rohloff（Bikonit-MD1000, Bakcou-Storm Jäger,Rambo-Venom. If your belt does snap or get worn out, it will be more expensive to replace it. They are harder to replace: It will be harder to find a replacement for your belt, especially if you are on the road and go to the nearest store. It is also harder to replace a belt because, as mentioned, you can not simply take it apart. You will have to take apart the frame instead. If you are in a more rural area, finding a replacement maybe even more complex. They can be less efficient: This varies. Belt drives are more efficient than chain drives at high power outputs and when going up inclines. However, belt drives are less efficient than chain drives at standard or low power outputs, which is most likely what you will be using if you are doing city riding. Belts are less efficient at low power inputs: If you’re cycling casually, you’ll burn more energy while riding a belt-drive bike vs. a chain drive. Belt drives cost more than chain drives: A new belt will cost you $80-$100. A new front and rear sprocket will cost around $60-$80 each. Spare parts are harder to find: If you’re riding in the developing world or somewhere remote, finding a replacement belt or sprocket will be difficult or impossible. Many small bike shops and department stores don’t stock parts for belt-driven bikes.           You can learn more about the belt drive from this video:   So, Which Is Better for You? There is no absolute answer to this as it depends on your own requirements. If you are on a budget or for mountain downhill, consider the standard chain drives. You may have to replace them more often, and you may have to spend more on maintenance, but the cost of maintaining and replacing chains is not very high. At this situation,chain drive is the best choice. On the other hand, if it is a daily urban commute, you can choose a single belt drive, or if you are a high-power user, such as hunting and other activities, you can consider going for a belt drive. Or you want to try something new, have a larger budget, and are tired of constantly cleaning your dirty, grimy chain and getting lube all over yourself and your garage floor. This also applies if you are tired of always putting your chain back on when it falls off or replacing it when it wears out or snaps. At this situation,belt drive is the best choice.    

One of your electric bike's most expensive and crucial components is the electric rechargeable battery. Taking care of your battery is crucial if you want to enjoy an electric bike. Here are two ways you can charge your Bikonit e-bike: Method 1 Charge the entire bike. First, plug in the battery, and then plug in the power supply; The red light of the charger indicates that it is charging The green light indicates that it is full of power. After fully charged, unplug the plug and fasten the buckle Method 2 Charge the batteries separately. First, remove the batteries from the bike. Plug the battery to charge in turns. After the battery is fully charged, unplug the plug and fasten the buckle. Judging battery power by the indicator light. The red indicator means no power; the green indicator shows the batteries are about to drain, and the blue indicator is fully charged. Charging an E-bike is simple, but you can do a few things to increase battery life. These tips will optimize the performance and lifespan of your Bikonit battery.   Tip No. 1: Charge a New Electric Bike Battery for 12 Hours When you first get a new electric bike, take the time to charge its battery completely for up to 12 hours. This long initial charge ensures that the current flows through all the cells and helps condition the battery right out of the box. Tip No. 2: Charge Your E-bike Battery Regularly The lithium chemistry batteries should last longer with regular use and, therefore, frequent charging.For the most part, you don’t need to let your electric bike battery discharge completely. Instead, try to charge the battery between 30 percent and 60 percent of the remaining capacity.Some battery experts do, however, suggest an occasional full discharge, perhaps, once every 30 to 40 charges. But otherwise, use the 30-to-60 percent guideline. To charge your electric bike battery regularly, you need to use it regularly, so let this be another encouragement to get out and ride. Tip No. 3: Avoid Temperature Extremes An electric bike battery feels the same way about the weather as most electric bike riders do. Moderate temperatures are better. To prolong an electric bike battery, avoid temperature extremes both in usage and when charging the battery. During a charging cycle, the battery should be in an environment that is warmer than freezing and not hotter than 110 degrees Fahrenheit at the extremes. But why go to extremes? It would be better if the temperature were between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit during charging. Tip No. 4: Don’t Overcharge an Electric Bike Battery Don’t just leave your electric bike battery on the charger for long periods — think several days or more. You can create a situation wherein the battery will discharge, leaving it at perhaps 95 percent capacity. The charger then goes to work, topping off the battery. These minor discharges and topping off-cycle continues creating a series of poor charging cycles. Instead, use a timer on your mobile device to remind you to take the battery off of the charger. Tip No. 5: Don’t Store an Empty Battery Sometimes you may need to store your electric bike battery. Perhaps, you’re about to take a trip. Maybe it is too cold outside to ride. Regardless, don’t store the battery empty relatively; look for it to have about 40-to-70 percent of its total capacity.

Do you know you can set a password to safeguard your Bikonit bikes? Here's how to set a password for the MD750 Bafang display: Press the power button to start your bike. Double press the "info" button. Press "info" again to enter "Display Setting." Press the "+" or "-" button to "PassWord Set." Select "ON." Set the value from 0-9 by pressing the "+" or "-" button. Press the "info" button to confirm. You will need to do it again to confirm your password.  Now it's all set. You can restart and have a try. Please remember your password. Otherwise, you'll need to spend a fortune to fix it.

When it comes to hunting, quiet mobility in the area is the most important. Getting near your prey must be carried out without creating much noise, or they could alarmingly move away and be more conscious of the surroundings. Hunting with an electric bike provides special advantages for hunters. These bikes are fast, quiet and allow you to cover more ground. These bikes have low-profiled design which makes them harder for animals to see in the wild. And with a powerful motor, it can strategically reduce your physical effort—diminishing your body scent from excessive sweating, which animals can easily detect. Here’s a quick guide when looking for an electric bike for hunting. Tire Fat tire e-bikes are popular not only because they look great, but also they serve a real purpose for hunting. E-bikes with fat tires don’t cut into sand, snow or mud. It also smooth out the minor bumps on rough trails. A fat tire e-bike brings more comfort into your off road adventures. Suspension Fire-Link suspension offers you additional control over your bike. You can stop quickly at any moment, even when you’re riding in unstable conditions such as mud or rain. There is no better way to get across rough terrain than on a higher suspension e-Bike. Range The range of your bike’s battery is an essential consideration before setting out on a big hunt. The distance varies with the weight of the rider and equipment, the roughness of the terrain, the speed and how much the rider pedal. Battery sizes are different between models, but on average, electric hunting mountain bikes should be able to cover about 60 miles on a single battery charge without pedaling. E-Bikes store a decent amount of power, but if you’re planning a more extended trip or overnight stay, you may want to use a solar power charger to recharge or extend your bike’s battery. Our Bikonit Warthog series all allow dual battery. With an extra battery, you can travel longer distance. But for sure, the bike will be heavier, bulkier and more expensive. Motor There are two main types of motor that an electric hunting bike can carry. Each of them will be delivering varying performance on different terrains. The rear hub motor (placed in the back wheel) produces massive raw power and is a practical choice as it requires less maintenance and is usually more affordable. However, its low torque makes it weak when climbing up a trail.  The mid drive motor (located between the bike’s pedals) has a stronger torque compared to the rear hub motor. Thus, it can power up steeper hills than a hub motor of similar power without overheating. An increased torque allows for better hill-climbing and heavier load-pulling capabilities. On the downside, bikes with this type of motor could be costlier and require more maintenance.     In conclusion, when you are looking for an electric hunting bike, battery range, motor, suspension and tires must be taken into consideration. 

There was a time when my treestand placement strategy simply involved leaning a 10-foot homemade ladder stand against a tree that allowed for maximum visibility. In those early days of my deer hunting career, the goal was to find a spot were I could just see deer. However, I quickly learned there was a big difference in deer hunting and deer killing. If I was going to put meat in the freezer, I had to learn the art of getting closer (but not too close) to deer, particularly in bow season when the shots need to be closer. When I began to strategize getting my stands within bow range of a deer during the early season, rut, and late season, I became more detailed. I began to track where deer entered and exited the field during different times of year. I made mental notes of what trails the does used and from what trails the bucks made their moves. When the pieces began to fall into place, I discovered a place my family now refers to as the Gauntlet, an area where we can always count on deer movement at our farm during specific times of the season. You can find similar places on the property you hunt, you just need to take a closer look at how deer move and set your stands accordingly. Here are some smart strategies for placing your stand in the right locations throughout the fall. Hanging your deer stand on the X is essential for finding yourself within bow range of deer no matter what month of the season you’re in. You need to know where deer naturally want to be and travel. The X is your ambush point where you’ll make the shot happen. The X can be located near entry and exit points around agriculture fields, bedding areas, or funnels somewhere between the two. Again, this depends on how deer are moving during a specific time of year. You want to hang your stand within shooting range of the X. Otherwise, you’ll be watching the show from a distance.  Before I delve into stand placement, let’s talk about accessing your stand. One of the single greatest factors for success on any hunt is how you get to your stand. If you don’t have a quality access route that allows you to slip into your stand without being busted, that’s going to make it near impossible to shoot any deer. If you drive deer out of the area every time you walk to a stand, your neighbor will love you, but you likely will never draw on a deer the entirety of the season. You may get away with it with the youngest deer in the herd, but the mature deer will quickly pick up on your pattern and avoid the area altogether. It’s imperative that you hang your treestand with access in mind. If you can’t access it without spooking deer, find another stand location. You need to have a clean and quiet route that ensures you’re not bumping deer. Clear your access trail of any brush so that you’re not leaving excessive human odor on the walk in or out or snapping twigs and rustling leaves. Creeks allow you to slide into your stand with minimal scent and noise, and it’s harder for deer to see you, because the creek bed is typically lower than the forest floor. Consider planting or creating cover screens along field edges and access routes so there is a buffer between you and the deer. Tall prairie grasses are ideal. Sometimes you can just let these areas around food plots of fields grow up and mow them down accordingly. Yes, it’s a lot of work. But the rewards are worth it when it comes to accessing your stand with minimal disturbance to your local deer herd. The Early-Season Stand In the early season, you’ll want to make sure your stand is tucked in nice and tight to the best food source on the property you’re hunting. There’s no one-size-fits-all approach here. It’s different for every farm. This is a great time to kill your target buck as he’s likely still following early-season feed patterns that make him highly predictable. If bean fields or food plots are the early draw, hang your stand in a tree on the field edge that allows you to shoot the entrance trail to the field. Early season bachelor groups will typically follow the same routine until disturbed, or the food source runs dry. Every buck in the bunch will follow this trail for access to the field. The smaller bucks will likely come first, with the biggest bucks typically bringing up the rear.   You’ll want to keep wind direction in your favor, but remain as tight as possible to this entry-exit trail in hopes of making the shot at the first available opportunity. Once the deer enter the field and begin to feed away from you, shot opportunities will grow fewer and farther between. The key is to stay on the downwind or crosswind side of this intersection for maximum shot opportunities as deer make their approach. Other early-season food sources may lead you deeper into the woods. When the acorns begin to drop, you’ll see a sharp decline in the activity around food plots. This transitions varies by region, but you can often expect to find October whitetails dining on white oak acorns pretty heavy. White oak acorns are like candy for deer. You can bet your target buck knows when the nuts are on the ground. But not just any oak tree will do. You’ve got to find the preferred feed trees at a given time. Look for excessive amounts of deer poop below these trees, indicating ample deer activity in the area. Key in on oak trees close to thick bedding cover for your best opportunity at catching your target buck slipping from his bed to dine on nuts. While some hunters may hang their stand right in the middle of the action, I prefer to climb a tree that allows me easy access to the oak stand without having to put my boots on the ground where deer will be feeding. With their noses to the ground in a feeding frenzy, they will be quick to pick out any foreign odors from a hunter entering the location. Always avoid walking where you’re predicting your deer activity to be. Find a tree that allows you to play the wind, but is also in a location where deer cant easily see you. It’s easy to get busted in the timber, particularly when there’s multiple deer feeding at a location. A stand hung 20 yards away from the action seems to help keep your presence on the down-low and go undetected from the eyes, ears, and noses of deer in close. The Perfect Rut Stand The X can change in a hurry when the rut hits. Gone are the days of your target buck making predictable movements. He may be on your farm one day, and chasing does 2 miles down the road the next this time of year. The key is to know your does. It’s my go-to strategy. I hunt the does, focusing on doe bedding areas, knowing that it’s only a matter of time before a big buck comes looking for a receptive female. Many hunters scratch their heads wondering why they aren’t seeing much activity in the fields or wide-open spaces. They haven’t considered the transition that has taken place, pushing the action in tight to the bedding areas and thickest cover on the farm. These thickets and bedding areas play host to much of the rutting activity each season. A stand placed on the downwind side of these choice bedding areas allows you to intercept a buck as he sweeps the downwind side, scent-checking does as he cruises through. It makes for the ultimate ambush. Select a tree that allows you to monitor the hard transition line at the edge of a bedding area and climb in. Don’t worry about climbing too high at this point. Keep maximum shot opportunities in mind as deer will be on the move and a shot can happen fast. The Late-Season Stand When the late season arrives, you’ll often find that your deer herd has become predictable again. The rut is over and the sporadic activity transitions back to survival mode in a late-season feeding frenzy. The late season can be tough. It can be feast or famine depending on the access and opportunity you have to hunt in the final days of the year. But for the hunter with a late-season food source on his or her property, the best days may be yet to come. Late-season food sources tend to make deer highly patternable once again. Much like the early season, deer will use these food plots, ag fields, or other late-season sources on a daily routine where pressure is minimal. Any buck that has survived to this point will be on a mission to rebuild what was lost during the rigors of the rut. He will be worn down and looking slim. He will fall back into patterns much like the early season as he makes his commute from bed to feed. Little else matters at this point of the season. To get the drop on him, you simply need to know what that bed to feed pattern looks like. Fortunately, once he establishes his routine, he’ll continue the same gig day after day until he’s pressured to the point of moving on. To kill him, hang a stand at the intersection of the field edge and entry trail he favors the most. Trail cameras can be your best friend here, allowing you to tap into the most recent intel. Despite being weary and worn down, these bucks are still sharp. Don’t get sloppy or let your guard down. Hang your stand with a favorable wind and be sure to have adequate cover to avoid being picked out. By now there will be few, if any, leaves on the trees and you can haul some cut cedars up the tree and ziptie them around your stand for concealment.

It's important to understand exactly how to ride an electric bicycle before purchasing.  So, we have our Bikonit Warthog MD 1000, pedal assist, throttle and full-suspension eBike here. Riding an electric bike is much like riding a regular bike, only much more fun. While it does differ from riding a regular bike, most e-bike newbies get the hang of it quickly. Typically, it only takes one test ride for the body’s muscle memory to adapt to the feel of a pedal-assist machine. Here are some top tips to keep you safe and having fun when riding an e-bike for the first time. START SLOW For the eBike as for all technical products the following rules apply: first you should take some time to get to know your eBike and its special features. Then you can go for your first spin on the eBike. It's a good idea to start in a flat, open, area. Electric bikes are heavier and switching gears while not riding is more difficult because of that weight. If you can do it though, pick up the rear of the bike and turn the pedals a few times while shifting to an easy gear. Start out without assistance at all. Get the bike moving and when you feel steady and comfortable turn on the assistance. This process will help you feel in control as the assistance kicks in.  BREAK EARLIER Pedal-assist power overcomes the sluggishness that a heavier bike might have, but a fast-moving weighty mass also requires an attentive brake hand. E-bikes come with robust brake systems to help, but you still have to be on top of your riding game. Even at the lightest assisted gear, an e-bike will add around 50 watts to your pedal stroke. That means you’ll want to slow down well ahead of stop signs and crossings, and far earlier than you would on a slower-moving bike. Get to know your brakes and their relative power, so you can better assess the safest time to start slowing down. MAKE YOURSELF SEEN Automotive traffic is an issue on any kind of bike but on an electric bike, it can be an even bigger problem. Drivers have a certain expectation about bikes and electric bikes change the equation. It's a challenge that fast-moving road cyclists also run into, but electric bikes exaggerate it even more. To make sure you’re seen, outfit your bike with lights and a bell. And it’s not only drivers—you might be too fast for pedestrians or other cyclists who won’t hear you coming without a polite warning. REMEMBER, IT'S STILL A BIKE Crashes can happen on any bike, but e-bikes are noteworthy because of the higher speed involved. So when you’re out zooming, make sure to keep standard bike safety in mind. Enjoy the ride!

It is widely known that battery life would drop while the temperature is decreasing. For example, one of our top series products Bikonit MD1000 could run up to 100 miles. However, some owners might feel the battery life decreased when winter is coming.  We found some professional information based on the laboratory studies from "batteryuniversity.com", a shared forum about battery basics from Switzerland. Figure: Capacity fade in storage and with a 25% cycle depth at different temperatures and SoC. (Source: Technische Universität München (TUM) Document: Aging of Lithium-Ion Batteries in Electric Vehicles) The figure demonstrates capacity fading during cycling at low, medium and high state-of-charge (SoC) levels and at different temperatures. These readings are demonstrated in colored solid lines. The graph also illustrates calendar aging that is represented in dotted lines with less capacity loss that cycling. As we can see from the graph lines, the test battery had the highest capacity loss at 10°C (blue) with high SoC. High losses when cycling Li-ion batteries at cool temperatures. Li-ion should be warmed up to a comfortable temperature of about 77°F with operating temperature of up to 104°F. And finally, our lovely Bikonit owners, please charge your e-bikes in a warm place (best around 77°F) to enhance your battery performance at low temperatures outside.   Footnotes For more information about the battery life, please visit the site: Battery University. How to maintain Lithium batteries for electric bikes - Easy! Video by Bolton Ebikes

Dear Bikonit owners, here are some newest information from the National Park Service ( NPS ) from the federal government. EARLIER: NPS Policy Memorandum 19–01 On August 30, 2019, the Deputy Director of the NPS, Exercising the Authority of the Director, issued Policy Memorandum 19–01, Electric Bicycles. This policy satisfies a requirement in the Secretary’s Order that all Department of the Interior agencies adopt policy and provide appropriate public guidance regarding the use of e- bikes on public lands that conforms to the policy direction set forth in the Order. The Memorandum defines an e-bike as ”a two- or three-wheeled cycle with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of less than 750 watts that provides propulsion assistance." NOW: A Rule by the National Park Service, Department of the Interior The National Park Service promulgates regulations governing the use of electric bicycles, or e-bikes, within the National Park System. This rule defines the term “electric bicycle” and establishes rules for how they may be used. This rule implements Secretary of the Interior Order 3376, ”Increasing Recreational Opportunities through the use of Electric Bikes,“ on lands administered by the National Park Service. This rule is effective on December 2, 2020. Any differences? This rule accomplishes these directives as related to the NPS, and once effective, will supersede and replace Policy Memorandum 19–01. The rule amends 36 CFR 1.4 to add a new definition of “electric bicycle” that is the same as the definition used in the Policy Memorandum, with one minor difference. The definition in the Memorandum refers to the definition of “electric bicycle” in the Consumer Product Safety Act (15 U.S.C. 2085), which limits the power of the motor to less than 750 watts. Many manufacturers sell e-bikes with motors having exactly 750 watts. In order to avoid the unintended consequence of excluding many devices from the regulatory definition of an e-bike due to a one-watt difference in power, the definition of e-bikes in this rule includes devices of not more than 750 watts. What is the latest definition of e-bikes by the federal government? Electric bicycle means a two - or three - wheeled cycle with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of not more than 750 watts that meets the requirements of one of the following three classes: (1) ‘‘Class 1 electric bicycle’’ shall mean an electric bicycle equipped with a motor that provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling, and that ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches the speed of 20 miles per hour. (2) ‘‘Class 2 electric bicycle’’ shall mean an electric bicycle equipped with a motor that may be used exclusively to propel the bicycle, and that is not capable of providing assistance when the bicycle reaches the speed of 20 miles per hour. (3) ‘‘Class 3 electric bicycle’’ shall mean an electric bicycle equipped with a motor that provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling, and that ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches the speed of 28 miles per hour. Simply Before 12/2/2020, less than 750 watts. After 12/2/2020, not more than 750 watts. So that e-bikes more than 750 watts are NOT electric bicycles but should be considered as motor vehicles.   Footnotes For more information about this rule, please visit the government site: Federal Register US Electric Bike Laws Explained Video by Bolton Ebikes

Ebikes are one of the rapid-growing categories in the cycling industry. The main types of ebike drive systems are geared hub-drive motor and mid-drive motor. For a hub-drive ebike, the motor is positioned on the front or rear wheel, with the motor placed handily in the wheel hub, while for a mid-drive ebike, the motor is positioned directly in between the pedals at the bike’s bottom bracket. With the upgrading of people's consumption, in recent years, ebikes equipped with high-performance mid-drive motor systems have become a new force, and their market share has been increased year by year, attracting more and more ebike manufacturers and ebike enthusiasts. Nowadays, most top-grade ebikes with high performance sold in America use mid-drive motors. So, what are the advantages of mid-drive motors compared with hub-drive motors? A low and central center of gravity is more reasonable and user-friendly, which providing load balancing and creating the feeling of riding a traditional non-electric bike. Placing the motor in the middle position of the frame ensures high efficiency of the performance, giving the ebike solid directional and tracking stability, while also ensuring the safety as well as the smooth acceleration of the ebike, avoiding problems such as the unstable center of gravity caused by turning. The torque sensor is more sensitive compared with the hub-drive motor. The acceleration of the mid-drive motor is faster which has a smaller rotor to provide more torque so that the ebike could provide a relatively higher load and climbing power especially on some complex terrain like hills. Fewer connecting wires are used for a mid-drive motor which makes a higher degree of integration. The controller and sensor are integrated with the mid-drive motor. That means, only some wires connected to other components are exposed to the outside such as meters, front lights, etc. This integrated design makes an ebike equipped with a mid-drive motor compact and easier to maintain. Bikonit Warthog MD1000 & MD750 are built with mid-drive motors in heart, are you interested? Feel free to follow up our page “Bikonit USA” and join the “Bikonit Ebike Owners Group” on Facebook™, where bike-minded people connect, a forum focused on sharing your stories, ideas, experiences, technical questions, and more with the rest of the Bikonit community. You can also subscribe to our YouTube™ Channel for knowledgeable and assembling videos. WHICH ELECTRIC BIKE MOTOR IS BEST? Video by Bolton Ebikes This article was inspired by the website “Bafang” and “Bosch”. All rights reserved by Bikonit Inc. It is okay to repost this article with special permission.