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What Is the Most Common Drive System for Ebikes? The most common drive system uses a chain to drive power to the wheels. This drive system has been in use for at least a century. Most bicycles, electric bikes, and motorcycles use chains, and it may be the only kind of drive system you have personally seen. However, other drive systems exist, and the belt drive is among the most well-known alternatives to the chain drive.                                                   What Other Drive Systems Exist for Ebikes? Other drive systems include the belt drive, which uses a belt instead of a chain. The belt drive uses a belt made out of a single part instead of a chain, which is made up of many factors. The belt will have tiny grooves to fit into the two pulleys – one on the gearbox and one on the wheel.                                                   While belt drives are probably most common after chain drives, there are some other types of drive systems out there as well. These include shaft drive, string drive, treadle drive, and direct drive, though these are not common (except direct drive, used for unicycles).   Chain Drives Pros : They are cheaper: Chain drives are generally more affordable than less common belt drives. They are familiar and easy to find: If you need to replace your chain, you can find a new chain bike chain online or at your local bike shop. Most bike shops sell chains, freewheels, cassettes, and chainrings. If your chain breaks or a cog wears out, you can easily find a replacement almost anywhere, even in remote parts of the world.  If you’re choosing a chain drive to make finding parts easier, 9, 10, 11, or 12-speed are your best bet. These are available everywhere. Compatible with most bikes: Chains are compatible with most bikes, regardless of the kind of motor or frame they have. However, some ebike require a particular chain Belts. You can take them apart: Since chains are made up of many parts, it is easy to take them apart. On the other hand, it is impossible to take a belt drive apart, so you will have to take apart the frame instead of removing it or replacing it. You can fix a broken chain: You can always fix it if a chain snaps. A belt drive comes in one piece, so it is damaged for good if the belt snaps. Chains are more efficient at low power inputs: For casual cycling, you’ll burn slightly less energy using a chain drive.  Cons : They can rust: Belt drives don’t rust as chains do, making it more of an issue to ride your bike in the rain or park it outside. They wear out quicker: Chains are not as durable as belts. They can be loud: Chains make more noise than belts due to the chains’ material and the many parts involved. They can squeak and make other annoying noises. They require more maintenance: Chains require a lot more maintenance. You have to clean them often and apply wet or dry lube to ensure they keep running smoothly. You also have to check for rust and ensure the chain isn’t worn out. Chains loose efficiency over time: As chains wear, they tend to ‘stretch.’ This is the loss of material from the chain from wear. As chains wear out, they become loose. This reduces tension and can lead to slippage. Cogs can also wear down to a point where the chain doesn’t fit quite right. This can create additional friction, which causes inefficiency. Not cleaning and lubing the chain often also enough reduces efficiency. This costs you energy. Belts maintain their shape and wear much more slowly. They also wear at the same rate as the cogs. This means they keep their efficiency longer. Dirtier: Chains require frequent cleaning and greasing. It’s a messy job. While dealing with your chain, you’ll eventually get grease on your hands and gear. Heavier: A chain weighs over three times as much as a belt. For example, an average 9-speed bike chain weighs around 450 grams. A Gates Carbon Drive belt weighs about 250 grams. You’ll also need to carry a chain tool, lube, spare links, and something to clean when you’re touring. Maybe even an entire extra chain. This adds a significant amount of weight. With a belt-drive, all you’ll need is a spare belt. Chains are more mechanically complex: Chains have a lot of moving parts. Each link has pins, outer plates, inner plates, and rollers. If a part gets bent or gummed up, it can prevent your chain from working properly. Belts are simply one continuous piece of material. If you’re using derailleurs, your drive system is less complex than if you use an internal gear hub.                                                   Chain drives don’t last as long: An average bike chain lasts around 3,000-5,000 miles if adequately cared for. Every time you change your chain, you’ll probably have to replace your cassette. Belt drives can last 10,000-20,000 miles before they need to be replaced.   Belt Drives Pros : Less maintenance is required: Belt drives require less maintenance. You don’t have to oil and lube the belt like you have to with a chain. For the most part, you can leave the belt as it is, and it will continue to work great. They last longer: Belts wear out much slower than chains. - An adequately maintained belt drive can last 3-5 times as long as a chain drive. Some riders have gotten 20,000 miles (around 30,000 km) out of a single belt. Most chains only last 3000-5000 miles. This means that although belts are more expensive initially, you may spend less in the long run due to not having to replace them as often (and not having to buy lube).                                                   They are quiet: Since belts are made of rubber instead of metal, they don’t make as much noise. If you enjoy peaceful, quiet rides in the morning while enjoying nature and the birds singing, you may want to opt for a belt drive. They stay on the bike: You may have experienced a chain falling off the bike if you’ve biked a lot. This won’t happen with a belt; you won’t have to stop on the side of the road to put your chain back on. They are lighter: Chains are heavier than belts. Belts weigh down your electric bike a lot less than chains. Also, you won’t have to carry around lube on long trips just in case your chain needs lubing.                                                   The driveline is always straight: The most efficient driveline is a straight line between your front chainring and rear cog. The driveline is always straight with a belt drive because the belt never moves between cogs. The shifting all happens in a hub or gearbox. A chain often runs at an angle. This happens when you’re running toward your gear range’s high or low extremes with a derailleur setup. This is inefficient and wastes energy. Of course, if you’re running an internal gear hub or Pinion inner hubs with a chain, the driveline is also straight. No corrosion: Belts are made of modern synthetic materials, including nylon and carbon fiber. These materials don’t rust. This property makes belt drives an excellent choice for areas where corrosion is expected, like near the ocean. Cons : They are more expensive: Belt drives are more expensive than chain drives. This is because the actual endeavor is more costly to produce and because they require specific inner hubs like Rohloff（Bikonit-MD1000, Bakcou-Storm Jäger,Rambo-Venom. If your belt does snap or get worn out, it will be more expensive to replace it. They are harder to replace: It will be harder to find a replacement for your belt, especially if you are on the road and go to the nearest store. It is also harder to replace a belt because, as mentioned, you can not simply take it apart. You will have to take apart the frame instead. If you are in a more rural area, finding a replacement maybe even more complex. They can be less efficient: This varies. Belt drives are more efficient than chain drives at high power outputs and when going up inclines. However, belt drives are less efficient than chain drives at standard or low power outputs, which is most likely what you will be using if you are doing city riding. Belts are less efficient at low power inputs: If you’re cycling casually, you’ll burn more energy while riding a belt-drive bike vs. a chain drive. Belt drives cost more than chain drives: A new belt will cost you $80-$100. A new front and rear sprocket will cost around $60-$80 each. Spare parts are harder to find: If you’re riding in the developing world or somewhere remote, finding a replacement belt or sprocket will be difficult or impossible. Many small bike shops and department stores don’t stock parts for belt-driven bikes.           You can learn more about the belt drive from this video:   So, Which Is Better for You? There is no absolute answer to this as it depends on your own requirements. If you are on a budget or for mountain downhill, consider the standard chain drives. You may have to replace them more often, and you may have to spend more on maintenance, but the cost of maintaining and replacing chains is not very high. At this situation,chain drive is the best choice. On the other hand, if it is a daily urban commute, you can choose a single belt drive, or if you are a high-power user, such as hunting and other activities, you can consider going for a belt drive. Or you want to try something new, have a larger budget, and are tired of constantly cleaning your dirty, grimy chain and getting lube all over yourself and your garage floor. This also applies if you are tired of always putting your chain back on when it falls off or replacing it when it wears out or snaps. At this situation,belt drive is the best choice.    

One of your electric bike's most expensive and crucial components is the electric rechargeable battery. Taking care of your battery is crucial if you want to enjoy an electric bike. Here are two ways you can charge your Bikonit e-bike: Method 1 Charge the entire bike. First, plug in the battery, and then plug in the power supply; The red light of the charger indicates that it is charging The green light indicates that it is full of power. After fully charged, unplug the plug and fasten the buckle Method 2 Charge the batteries separately. First, remove the batteries from the bike. Plug the battery to charge in turns. After the battery is fully charged, unplug the plug and fasten the buckle. Judging battery power by the indicator light. The red indicator means no power; the green indicator shows the batteries are about to drain, and the blue indicator is fully charged. Charging an E-bike is simple, but you can do a few things to increase battery life. These tips will optimize the performance and lifespan of your Bikonit battery.   Tip No. 1: Charge a New Electric Bike Battery for 12 Hours When you first get a new electric bike, take the time to charge its battery completely for up to 12 hours. This long initial charge ensures that the current flows through all the cells and helps condition the battery right out of the box. Tip No. 2: Charge Your E-bike Battery Regularly The lithium chemistry batteries should last longer with regular use and, therefore, frequent charging.For the most part, you don’t need to let your electric bike battery discharge completely. Instead, try to charge the battery between 30 percent and 60 percent of the remaining capacity.Some battery experts do, however, suggest an occasional full discharge, perhaps, once every 30 to 40 charges. But otherwise, use the 30-to-60 percent guideline. To charge your electric bike battery regularly, you need to use it regularly, so let this be another encouragement to get out and ride. Tip No. 3: Avoid Temperature Extremes An electric bike battery feels the same way about the weather as most electric bike riders do. Moderate temperatures are better. To prolong an electric bike battery, avoid temperature extremes both in usage and when charging the battery. During a charging cycle, the battery should be in an environment that is warmer than freezing and not hotter than 110 degrees Fahrenheit at the extremes. But why go to extremes? It would be better if the temperature were between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit during charging. Tip No. 4: Don’t Overcharge an Electric Bike Battery Don’t just leave your electric bike battery on the charger for long periods — think several days or more. You can create a situation wherein the battery will discharge, leaving it at perhaps 95 percent capacity. The charger then goes to work, topping off the battery. These minor discharges and topping off-cycle continues creating a series of poor charging cycles. Instead, use a timer on your mobile device to remind you to take the battery off of the charger. Tip No. 5: Don’t Store an Empty Battery Sometimes you may need to store your electric bike battery. Perhaps, you’re about to take a trip. Maybe it is too cold outside to ride. Regardless, don’t store the battery empty relatively; look for it to have about 40-to-70 percent of its total capacity.

There was a time when my treestand placement strategy simply involved leaning a 10-foot homemade ladder stand against a tree that allowed for maximum visibility. In those early days of my deer hunting career, the goal was to find a spot were I could just see deer. However, I quickly learned there was a big difference in deer hunting and deer killing. If I was going to put meat in the freezer, I had to learn the art of getting closer (but not too close) to deer, particularly in bow season when the shots need to be closer. When I began to strategize getting my stands within bow range of a deer during the early season, rut, and late season, I became more detailed. I began to track where deer entered and exited the field during different times of year. I made mental notes of what trails the does used and from what trails the bucks made their moves. When the pieces began to fall into place, I discovered a place my family now refers to as the Gauntlet, an area where we can always count on deer movement at our farm during specific times of the season. You can find similar places on the property you hunt, you just need to take a closer look at how deer move and set your stands accordingly. Here are some smart strategies for placing your stand in the right locations throughout the fall. Hanging your deer stand on the X is essential for finding yourself within bow range of deer no matter what month of the season you’re in. You need to know where deer naturally want to be and travel. The X is your ambush point where you’ll make the shot happen. The X can be located near entry and exit points around agriculture fields, bedding areas, or funnels somewhere between the two. Again, this depends on how deer are moving during a specific time of year. You want to hang your stand within shooting range of the X. Otherwise, you’ll be watching the show from a distance.  Before I delve into stand placement, let’s talk about accessing your stand. One of the single greatest factors for success on any hunt is how you get to your stand. If you don’t have a quality access route that allows you to slip into your stand without being busted, that’s going to make it near impossible to shoot any deer. If you drive deer out of the area every time you walk to a stand, your neighbor will love you, but you likely will never draw on a deer the entirety of the season. You may get away with it with the youngest deer in the herd, but the mature deer will quickly pick up on your pattern and avoid the area altogether. It’s imperative that you hang your treestand with access in mind. If you can’t access it without spooking deer, find another stand location. You need to have a clean and quiet route that ensures you’re not bumping deer. Clear your access trail of any brush so that you’re not leaving excessive human odor on the walk in or out or snapping twigs and rustling leaves. Creeks allow you to slide into your stand with minimal scent and noise, and it’s harder for deer to see you, because the creek bed is typically lower than the forest floor. Consider planting or creating cover screens along field edges and access routes so there is a buffer between you and the deer. Tall prairie grasses are ideal. Sometimes you can just let these areas around food plots of fields grow up and mow them down accordingly. Yes, it’s a lot of work. But the rewards are worth it when it comes to accessing your stand with minimal disturbance to your local deer herd. The Early-Season Stand In the early season, you’ll want to make sure your stand is tucked in nice and tight to the best food source on the property you’re hunting. There’s no one-size-fits-all approach here. It’s different for every farm. This is a great time to kill your target buck as he’s likely still following early-season feed patterns that make him highly predictable. If bean fields or food plots are the early draw, hang your stand in a tree on the field edge that allows you to shoot the entrance trail to the field. Early season bachelor groups will typically follow the same routine until disturbed, or the food source runs dry. Every buck in the bunch will follow this trail for access to the field. The smaller bucks will likely come first, with the biggest bucks typically bringing up the rear.   You’ll want to keep wind direction in your favor, but remain as tight as possible to this entry-exit trail in hopes of making the shot at the first available opportunity. Once the deer enter the field and begin to feed away from you, shot opportunities will grow fewer and farther between. The key is to stay on the downwind or crosswind side of this intersection for maximum shot opportunities as deer make their approach. Other early-season food sources may lead you deeper into the woods. When the acorns begin to drop, you’ll see a sharp decline in the activity around food plots. This transitions varies by region, but you can often expect to find October whitetails dining on white oak acorns pretty heavy. White oak acorns are like candy for deer. You can bet your target buck knows when the nuts are on the ground. But not just any oak tree will do. You’ve got to find the preferred feed trees at a given time. Look for excessive amounts of deer poop below these trees, indicating ample deer activity in the area. Key in on oak trees close to thick bedding cover for your best opportunity at catching your target buck slipping from his bed to dine on nuts. While some hunters may hang their stand right in the middle of the action, I prefer to climb a tree that allows me easy access to the oak stand without having to put my boots on the ground where deer will be feeding. With their noses to the ground in a feeding frenzy, they will be quick to pick out any foreign odors from a hunter entering the location. Always avoid walking where you’re predicting your deer activity to be. Find a tree that allows you to play the wind, but is also in a location where deer cant easily see you. It’s easy to get busted in the timber, particularly when there’s multiple deer feeding at a location. A stand hung 20 yards away from the action seems to help keep your presence on the down-low and go undetected from the eyes, ears, and noses of deer in close. The Perfect Rut Stand The X can change in a hurry when the rut hits. Gone are the days of your target buck making predictable movements. He may be on your farm one day, and chasing does 2 miles down the road the next this time of year. The key is to know your does. It’s my go-to strategy. I hunt the does, focusing on doe bedding areas, knowing that it’s only a matter of time before a big buck comes looking for a receptive female. Many hunters scratch their heads wondering why they aren’t seeing much activity in the fields or wide-open spaces. They haven’t considered the transition that has taken place, pushing the action in tight to the bedding areas and thickest cover on the farm. These thickets and bedding areas play host to much of the rutting activity each season. A stand placed on the downwind side of these choice bedding areas allows you to intercept a buck as he sweeps the downwind side, scent-checking does as he cruises through. It makes for the ultimate ambush. Select a tree that allows you to monitor the hard transition line at the edge of a bedding area and climb in. Don’t worry about climbing too high at this point. Keep maximum shot opportunities in mind as deer will be on the move and a shot can happen fast. The Late-Season Stand When the late season arrives, you’ll often find that your deer herd has become predictable again. The rut is over and the sporadic activity transitions back to survival mode in a late-season feeding frenzy. The late season can be tough. It can be feast or famine depending on the access and opportunity you have to hunt in the final days of the year. But for the hunter with a late-season food source on his or her property, the best days may be yet to come. Late-season food sources tend to make deer highly patternable once again. Much like the early season, deer will use these food plots, ag fields, or other late-season sources on a daily routine where pressure is minimal. Any buck that has survived to this point will be on a mission to rebuild what was lost during the rigors of the rut. He will be worn down and looking slim. He will fall back into patterns much like the early season as he makes his commute from bed to feed. Little else matters at this point of the season. To get the drop on him, you simply need to know what that bed to feed pattern looks like. Fortunately, once he establishes his routine, he’ll continue the same gig day after day until he’s pressured to the point of moving on. To kill him, hang a stand at the intersection of the field edge and entry trail he favors the most. Trail cameras can be your best friend here, allowing you to tap into the most recent intel. Despite being weary and worn down, these bucks are still sharp. Don’t get sloppy or let your guard down. Hang your stand with a favorable wind and be sure to have adequate cover to avoid being picked out. By now there will be few, if any, leaves on the trees and you can haul some cut cedars up the tree and ziptie them around your stand for concealment.

It's important to understand exactly how to ride an electric bicycle before purchasing.  So, we have our Bikonit Warthog MD 1000, pedal assist, throttle and full-suspension eBike here. Riding an electric bike is much like riding a regular bike, only much more fun. While it does differ from riding a regular bike, most e-bike newbies get the hang of it quickly. Typically, it only takes one test ride for the body’s muscle memory to adapt to the feel of a pedal-assist machine. Here are some top tips to keep you safe and having fun when riding an e-bike for the first time. START SLOW For the eBike as for all technical products the following rules apply: first you should take some time to get to know your eBike and its special features. Then you can go for your first spin on the eBike. It's a good idea to start in a flat, open, area. Electric bikes are heavier and switching gears while not riding is more difficult because of that weight. If you can do it though, pick up the rear of the bike and turn the pedals a few times while shifting to an easy gear. Start out without assistance at all. Get the bike moving and when you feel steady and comfortable turn on the assistance. This process will help you feel in control as the assistance kicks in.  BREAK EARLIER Pedal-assist power overcomes the sluggishness that a heavier bike might have, but a fast-moving weighty mass also requires an attentive brake hand. E-bikes come with robust brake systems to help, but you still have to be on top of your riding game. Even at the lightest assisted gear, an e-bike will add around 50 watts to your pedal stroke. That means you’ll want to slow down well ahead of stop signs and crossings, and far earlier than you would on a slower-moving bike. Get to know your brakes and their relative power, so you can better assess the safest time to start slowing down. MAKE YOURSELF SEEN Automotive traffic is an issue on any kind of bike but on an electric bike, it can be an even bigger problem. Drivers have a certain expectation about bikes and electric bikes change the equation. It's a challenge that fast-moving road cyclists also run into, but electric bikes exaggerate it even more. To make sure you’re seen, outfit your bike with lights and a bell. And it’s not only drivers—you might be too fast for pedestrians or other cyclists who won’t hear you coming without a polite warning. REMEMBER, IT'S STILL A BIKE Crashes can happen on any bike, but e-bikes are noteworthy because of the higher speed involved. So when you’re out zooming, make sure to keep standard bike safety in mind. Enjoy the ride!